DIY EVERLIGHTS v3 LEDs
101 Basics To Do-It-Yourself
This page is best used to quickly learn some basics of the EverLights installation process.
Version 3 EverLights introduce many improved features which results in a few tweaks to the installation process. Stick with the standard instructions found below with the following adjustments:
Please also review the below installation video for the V3 network bridge controller. All other installation steps are basically the same as the V2 systems: Click Here to Watch
EverLights were designed to embed into the gutters and flashing on existing homes. Many homes already have everything needed to install EverLights right on the house. Simply drill holes using our handy template, insert the light through the backside of the hole, and secure the light in place by screwing on the cap. If your home does not have gutters or drip edge flashing installed, it’s a simple addition. Custom moldings are available, but you can also find what you need at your local home improvement center.
EverLights run off a three conductor cable for version 2, and the NEW version 3 runs off a four conductor cable. The two outside wires are stranded 18 AWG power wires, and the middle wire is a stranded 22 AWG data wire. The positive wire is consistently labeled with the text “EverLights”.
The lights are directional and must be installed with the correct polarity. You can identify the “in” and “out” of each light by looking at the backside of the circuit board of any light.
The lights can be cut at any point without causing damage to any light in the string as long as the power is off. You can add a Y-splice or an unlit section to the lights at any point.
Always follow these 3 simple rules!
The first step to installing your system is to link your network bridge to your home Wi-Fi network. You can download the complete instructions below, but a few things to note:
- The Wi-Fi network you choose must be a 2.4 GHz network.
- Pick a network that has a consistently strong signal wherever you are installing your bridge.
- Make sure your mobile device is on the same network you assign to your network bridge anytime you want to control the lights.
- To hang the bridge on the wall, place a piece of layout tape on the wall and drill two holes six inches apart with the included drill bits. Insert the drywall anchors and mount the bridge.
The EverLights Starter Kit comes with all the materials you need to get your lights going, but there are a few tools you will need:
LADDER SAFETY FIRST: This EverLights system requires the use of ladders and that you be up on the roof elevated off the ground to install. It is extremely important that you read all instructions, warnings, and safety precaution labels that come standard on all ladders. Failure to do so, can result in critical injuries and possible death. Therefore if you are afraid of heights, unbalanced, or unsure of your personal abilities while using ladders, we highly recommend you hire someone instead of trying to install these yourself.
Plug & Play
The EverLights Color Changing (RGB LEDs) system doesn't use traditional terminal blocks to connect the system, because it is all done wirelessly from your home's wifi router, to the first run of lights. Other systems still use terminal blocks, and this tells you that they are completely hard wired from start to finish which costs more in materials and labor.
Terminating a run of lights
Just cut off any excess lights wherever you want to end your run of lights. To prevent the lights from shorting due to contact with a gutter, or connection via water or ice, it is best to coat the end of the wires. We recommend liquid electrical tape, but silicone or standard electrical tape will also do the trick. Since the biggest risk of exposed wires is connecting the ground and positive wires, it's a good idea to snip one of the power wires an inch or so shorter so there's a larger gap to bridge should the coating wear off.
Heat shrink butt splices
The most weatherproof connection. Strip ¼” of insulation from the wire, twist the strands of wire to compact, and insert the stripped wire into one side of the connector. Use your crimp tool to squeeze the coupler tight around the wire. If your knuckles pop, you have squeezed hard enough. Use a lighter or mini torch to gently apply heat to the coupler, starting at the middle and moving outwards.
When making a Y-split use a multiple wire step down connector heat shrink. Installation is the same as a regular butt splice heat shrink, except strip 3/8” of insulation off the two output wires and twist them together before inserting into the butt splice. Melting the heat shrink is the same, but make sure the glue provides a good seal between the two wires on the output side.
It is very important to pay attention to the direction of your lights. If you wire the lights backwards, you may cause damage to the lights or the control box. Each individual light is marked with the words "In" and "Out" on the backside of the shell. You can think of the control box sending the signal and power out to your lights. This means the first light that connects to your control box should connect on the "In" side. Each subsequent light connects in like manner, even when there's a Y-split or section of unlit wire. Always connect "Out" to "In". Never connect "Out" to "Out" or "In" to "In".
Inside each LED there are three pixels, a red, green, and blue pixel. The 16 million colors are achieved by mixing the brightness of these three pixels. White is achieved by full brightness on all three pixels. As such, white is the biggest power draw to the system.
We recommend boosting the power every 75 feet or so to keep the colors consistent. Many patterns or colors will be fine at longer distances, but if your lights are on all white at full brightness, you will start to notice the colors turning reddish around the 75 foot mark. You can boost your power at longer or shorter intervals, but 75 feet is a good rule of thumb.
There are ways to maximize the length you can go without boosting the power. You can read about these in our Tips and Tricks. However, in many cases there is no getting around boosting the power. In these situations, you have the following options to accomplish this:
1) Use a power booster
EverLights power boosters are waterproof power supplies that can be installed in outdoor locations. Ideally, you will have an eave outlet close to where you need to boost your power, but any outlet will do. This is the ideal method for boosting power.
2) Run parallel power off a booster
Run the second set of parallel power wires from a power booster instead of the control box. This essentially provides two power boosting locations.
Connecting the wiring is the same procedure. If you are tapping the fresh power into the middle of a run, cut the two power wires but leave the data and backup wires intact. You can also add the fresh power at any connection point, in which case you would connect the data wires as usual. Next, join all three positive wires using a multiple wire butt splice connector. If connecting the booster between two lights be sure to put the booster wire in the larger side of the connector with one of the wires from the lights. This will ensure proper spacing. Lastly, connect all three neutral wires using an additional multiple wire butt splice connector.
VIDEO UPDATE: New V3 Lights have 4wires so the data wire described in the video is now 2 wires (data & backup) to set aside and don't cut for power booster installs.